utorak, 1. ožujka 2016.

NARS Spring Summer Catwalk Looks

To be able to create my catwalk make up looks I decided to research other looks that NARS had came up with in the past couple of years. I am specificaly looking at the spring summer looks, analysing both hair and make up. 
I've found some looks through the NARS Cosmetics Facebook page and Youtube Channel as well as browsing Pinterest. There are many very simple, organic, fresh, dewy minimal make up looks...

Starting with last season, at Marc Jacobs SS15 show Francois Nars, who was the lead artist, decided to completely expose the models and used nothing but moisturiser (NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream) and concealer but only if it was absolutely needed. The quote that they have put on the Facebook page, where he explains the look is;
I love makeup but I also love seeing women without makeup. To me, it’s a great way to show fashion. It works so well with the clothes and the hair.

All models had black wigs with thick bangs, and the look was beachy, as it had dried naturally. I don't think anyone would notice that they were even wearing wigs if they didn't all wear them as it looks very real and natural. 
Marc Jacobs 
SS15
MUA: Francois Nars
NARS Cosmetics Facebook page
Date: Sep 12 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152598909621387.1073741849.53590256386/10152598909746387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Feb 2016)

At Erdem's SS15 show the look they were going for was, as they described on their Facebook page : "A bit demure, a bit Victorian". The skin was pale and dewy; they used only concealer and powder, and a combination of three multiple sticks (two matte, one shimmery) to subtly sculpt the face and create that Victorian look. They kept the eyes very neutral with just a little bit of eyeshadow and two multiple sticks, eyeliner to create a very fine aline along the top lash line and a single coat of mascara and just a dab of a multiple stick on the lips. They used a mixture of matte products and powder with shimmery, illuminating products such as the Copacabana Mutlitple to create a timeless 'no makeup' look. It is also the kind of look that could have been used for the Estella character from the Great Expectations by Charles Dickens. 

The hair added to the Victorian feel - a loose low plait and middle parting, hair covering the ears. 

Erdem 
SS15
MUA: Val Garland
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152606151286387.1073741851.53590256386&type=3
Accessed: Feb 27 2016)
Erdem 
SS15
MUA: Val Garland
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152606151286387.1073741851.53590256386&type=3
Accessed: Feb 27 2016)

When Creatures of the Wind casted their models for their Spring Summer 2015 collection, summer had just gone and they all had that natural sunkissed look. Lead make up artist, James Boehmer decided to use this and just accentuate what he had infront of him. He actually used the Belle Du Jour Sheer Lipstick on the cheeks after moisturising, concealing and powdering lightly and then the 413 BLKR Illuminator on the eyes and lips. Brows were slightly brushed upwards and the hair was kept natural.

Creatures of the Wind
SS15
MUA: James Boehmer
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 5 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152585919976387.1073741840.53590256386/10152585920186387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Feb 27 2016)
Creatures of the Wind
SS15
MUA: James Boehmer
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 5 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152585919976387.1073741840.53590256386/10152585920186387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Feb 27 2016)


Luminous skin and a bold orange lip was created by Uzo for Tanya Taylor's SS15 fashion show. Orange is the colour that was definitely not seen on catwalks this season, however the glowing skin was what caught my attention. As for most of the Spring/ Summer catwalk looks that I've seen NARS create, no foundation was used, only moisturiser and concealer where needed. A mixture of multiple sticks added to the fresh, healthy looking cheeks and eye make up was minimal, as the lips were the main focus.

Tany Taylor
SS15
MUA: Uzo
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 7 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152587888051387.1073741842.53590256386/10152587888626387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Feb 28 2016)


Diane Kendal, inspired by the artist Paul Gauguin, decided to create a look for Thakoon SS15 where models looked like they just came out of the water. The eyelids are glossy and the gloss is brushed into the brows. To create that glossy look they used lip gloss and to create such a lumonius almost wet looking skin they used a mixture of four of NARS Multiple sticks: Orgasm, Copacabana and South Beach. Copacabana was also mixed with the foundation as well as applied all over the lips.
The hair is wet looking, which was probably achieved with gel. Very slicked with a centre parting and the sides are pulled back, behind the ears. It is basically what everyone hopes to look when they come out of the sea, but no one ever does.
This look I can easily link to my editorial day look as it is the idea that I have in mind. Only I will be adding eye shadow and a generous amount of mascara to make the lashes look very clumpy. 

Thakoon
SS15
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 9 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152593214536387.1073741844.53590256386&type=3
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)
Thakoon
SS15
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 9 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152593214536387.1073741844.53590256386&type=3
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)


The prevoius season, SS14, Edrem had a more dramatic make up look. The hair was very similar to the hair in Marc Jacob's SS16 fashion show, only the hair was here clean whereas in his show it was gelled and messier. The brows were the main feature in this look as they were quite thick, and eyeliner was applied on the bottom lash line and slightly pulled outwards, a bit of eyeshadow but no mascara. The skin was slightly bronzed and sculpted and lips matte nude. 

Erdem 
SS14
London Fashion Week
MUA: James Kaliardos
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 17 2013
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10151898675976387.1073741837.53590256386/10151898676021387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)


For Naem Khan both SS '14 and '15 shows the make up was very similar. The difference was in the hair - they had big glamorous waves in 2014 and in 2015 sleek hair with middle parting and braided into a romantic halo braid. The eyes were a muted warm terracotta colour (that's how I would describe it) in 2014 it was glossy (with vaseline). There was a hint of pink on the lips - a ligther colour, all over the lips in 2015 and a slightly darker in 2014, stained lip faded towards the edges. 

Naem Khan
SS15
MUA: James Boehmer
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Facebook
Date: Sep 10 2014
(source: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152595466466387.1073741848.53590256386/10152595467081387/?type=3&theater
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)
Backstage at  Naem Khan
NY Fashion Week
ss14
Nars Cosmetics
(source: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/467881848758346843/
Accessed: Feb 1 2016)


Uzo created a 60's summer inspired look for Tanya Taylor SS13 show. What makes the look modern is that no eyeliner was used. A little bit of foundation mixed with the Copacabana Illuminator on the face and ears, concealer under the eyes and then the Copacabana Multiple stick on the cheek bones made the model's skin look very fresh and healthy. The lips colour was a pink nude and the eyes had two coats of mascara.

The hairstyle was very simple - a low pony tail, all hair brushed backwards so there is no parting and the hair was natural, not straightened or curled. 

BACKSTAGE: Nar's Uzo for Tanya Taylor Spring 2013
Posted by: Lifestyle Mirror to Youtube
Date: Sep 11 2012
(source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8sUHvYCTTU
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)

The look created by Francelle Daly for Phillip Lim's SS13 fashion show had pretty much all elements that I've seen in the looks for this season; sunkissed skin, clumpy lashes, black liner on the bottom lash line, brows brused upwards and very neutral lip colour. The hair was big, wavy and messy. 

NARS for 3.1 Phillip Lim SS13 Fashion Week
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Youtube
MUA: Francelle Daly
Date: Jun 25 2013
(source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZYtkmh8Zt4
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)

Christopher Kane's SS13 collection was inspired by Frankenstein's monster, so Lucia Pieroni, lead artist, decided to create a very luminous looks with irridecent skin, but then use black eyeliner on the lower lash line. The brows were nicely groomed and pointed towards the temples. The Copacabana Illuminator that she used on the high points of the face she also applied onto the shoulders and legs to create the illusion of lumonious skin. The hair was slicked into pony tail and the hair was straightened 

This is the kind of skin finish that I want to create for my evening catwalk look, almost irridecent - I think I will use a pear white pigment to highlight. Also this kind of hairstyle I am thinking of using in my editorial evening look. 

Christopher Kane
SS13
MUA: Lucia Pieroni
Posted by: The Beauty Shopper
Date: Sep 22 2012
(source: https://fixmakeup.co.uk/2012/09/22/lfw-christopher-kane-ss13-makeup/
Accessed: Mar 1 2016)
NARS for Christopher Kane SS13 Fashion Week
Posted by NARS Cosmetics to Youtube
Date: Dec 19 2012
(Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtMimAQupMw
Accessed: Feb 20 2016)


This research showed me that catwalk doesn't have to be crazy and avant garde all the time, expecially when it comes to spring/ summer collections. I want to keep my catwalk day look very simple and natural and need to find a model with clear skin otherwise a lot more foundation and concealer will be needed. Moisturising is the key, as well as illuminators mixed with the foundation to delute it and create a perfect healthy glow. 
There are many many looks that NARS had created over the years so it would be a bit hard to include every single one, therefore I included those looks that had the elements that I will be using in my designs for this project.

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